~ scenes from kuta, legian & seminyak ~After over a week of paddling, wave catching & playing in the water, I am totally surfed out! Not to mention bruised, sore, bronzed & extremely happy :) There's no stoke like paddling out on a clear sunny day, sliding down some glassy waves, wiping out on fierce ones, waiting on your board in between sets & taking off on long sweet rides.
Until recently, I have never really surfed solo. I had been afraid, in need & want of someone to paddle out with me. The first time I went on my own was wildly nerve wracking & exhilarating. It was a complete act of trusting myself & trusting nature. Each time I go out there is an act of complete letting go. After all how can you truly play with fear & control in your heart? You simply can't.
The cool thing is, you're never really alone. It doesn't matter where you're from or what board you're on, the lineup is teeming with like-hearted people filled with the same desire to play. There's always someone to share the stoke with. :)
One of my favorites from this week was letting a huge wave go, watching as it closed out from behind... and as the sea spray caught the afternoon light, a full rainbow stretched across the water. It was only for a few magical moments but my smile stayed on long after that.
Peace, love & good vibes. ♥
3 comments:
Awwwow!!! I feel ya! I didn't think anyone could be "surfed out" but that feeling is still awesome. :)
Your description of going out to surf solo for the first time reminded me of my first time going horseback riding!
"...wracking & exhilarating. a complete act of trusting myself & trusting nature. Each time I go out there is an act of complete letting go."---I love that.
I just love your blog. I am far removed from the ocean and get my 'fix' from reading your posts. Will be visiting Hawaii soon one day and will definitely try surfing.
I really encourage you to write for a website called www.agreatplace.ca. They post no ads. It just exists to spread good karma by collecting inspirational stories. I think you should write it! If your story is featured, you can post a link to your blog. Here's the site address if you're interested. Would love to see your contribution there! www.agreatplace.ca And keep blogging!
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